DIY Guide · 2026
How to build a privacy fence.
The exact 8-step process Kodiak's crews use to build a 6 ft cedar privacy fence — tools, materials, post depth, spacing, permits, and the two mistakes that ruin most DIY fences.
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Before you start
Tools & materials.
Tools
- ✓ Post-hole digger or 2-man auger (10–12 in bit)
- ✓ 4 ft level + line level + 100 ft mason string
- ✓ Cordless impact driver + 1/4 in hex bits
- ✓ Circular saw or miter saw
- ✓ Wheelbarrow for mixing concrete
- ✓ Tape measure (100 ft), marking paint, stakes
Materials (per 150 ft fence)
- • 4×4×8 ft pressure-treated posts (1 per 8 ft of run + corners + gates)
- • 2×4×8 ft pressure-treated rails (2 rails per panel, 3 if 6 ft+ tall)
- • 1×6×6 ft cedar or pressure-treated pickets (~13 per 8 ft panel, dog-eared)
- • 60 lb bags fast-set concrete (2 per post for 6 ft fence)
- • 3 in exterior screws (deck/ceramic-coated) — about 1 lb per panel
- • 2.5 in ring-shank picket nails or screws
- • Gravel for post-hole base (1 shovel per hole)
The 8 steps
How to build a privacy fence.
- 01
Call 811 and check setbacks
Call 811 at least 3 business days before digging — it's free and required by law. While you wait, pull your plat or property survey and confirm property lines. Most cities require fences to sit 6 in inside your line, and most HOAs require architectural approval before you start. Permit cost in the Kansas City metro runs $25–$75.
- 02
Lay out the fence line
Drive a stake at each corner and gate location. Run mason string tight between stakes — this is your fence line. Mark every post location with paint, starting at corners and ending at gates. Standard spacing is 8 ft on center; never stretch past 8 ft or pickets will sag in 2 winters.
- 03
Dig post holes 36 inches deep
Frost line in KC and most of the upper Midwest is 36 in. Dig every post hole 36 in deep minimum, 10–12 in wide. Anything shallower will heave every winter and your fence will lean by year 3. Throw a shovel of gravel in the bottom of each hole for drainage.
- 04
Set posts in concrete
Drop the post in, brace it with two scrap 2×4s, and check plumb on two faces with a level. Pour dry fast-set concrete into the hole — 2 bags per post for a 6 ft fence — then pour about a gallon of water on top. Slope the top of the concrete away from the post so water sheds. Let posts cure 24 hours before adding rails.
- 05
Attach the rails
Mark rail height on each post: bottom rail 6 in off the ground, top rail 6 in below the post top, middle rail centered (for 6 ft fences). Screw 2×4 rails to the post faces with two 3 in exterior screws at each end. Keep rails level — set a line level on the string to match.
- 06
Install the pickets
Set the first picket plumb against a corner post. Use a spacer block (1/2 in for cedar so wood can expand) between each picket. Drive 2 nails or screws into each rail per picket. Keep the tops level by snapping a chalk line across the top rail every 4–5 pickets.
- 07
Hang the gate
Pre-build the gate frame on a flat surface — 2×4 frame with a diagonal brace running from the bottom-hinge corner to the top-latch corner (this is the only direction that fights sag). Hang with 3 heavy-duty T-hinges. Leave a 1/2 in gap on the hinge side and a 1 in gap on the latch side so the gate swings free in summer humidity.
- 08
Seal or stain (optional but recommended)
Let cedar weather 30 days before staining. Apply a semi-transparent oil-based stain with UV blockers — Cabot, Penofin, or TWP are the trade favorites. Re-coat every 3–5 years on the south and west sides. Pressure-treated pine should sit 6 months before staining.
The two mistakes that ruin DIY fences
What kills a privacy fence in year 3.
Mistake #1
Shallow posts
Anything less than 36 in below grade will heave when the ground freezes. By winter 3, half your posts lean and the fence looks like a roller coaster. Rent the auger and dig the extra 6 inches — it's the single biggest lifespan factor.
Mistake #2
Stretching post spacing
"I'll just go 9 ft to save 2 posts" — and your 2×4 rails sag by year 2. 8 ft on center is the maximum. On windy west-facing runs, drop to 6 ft on center.
FAQ
Privacy fence build questions.
- Build a 6 ft privacy fence in 8 steps: (1) call 811 and pull a fence permit, (2) lay out the fence line with stakes and string, (3) dig post holes 36 inches deep (below the frost line), (4) set 4x4 posts in concrete and let cure 24 hours, (5) attach 2x4 rails — top, middle, and bottom, (6) install cedar pickets with a 1/2 inch spacer for wood expansion, (7) hang the gate with a diagonal brace running from the bottom hinge to the top latch, (8) let cedar weather 30 days then seal with a UV stain. A 150 ft fence takes a 2-person crew 2–3 weekends.Link to this answer
- Privacy fence posts must be set at least 36 inches deep in concrete in Kansas City and most of the upper Midwest. 36 inches is the frost line — set posts any shallower and they will heave every winter, leaning the fence by year 2 or 3. Dig holes 10–12 inches wide, add a shovel of gravel for drainage, and use 2 bags of fast-set concrete per post for a 6 ft fence.Link to this answer
- Set privacy fence posts 8 feet on center maximum. Anything wider and the pickets will sag and the rails will bow within 2 winters. Standard pre-cut lumber (8 ft 2x4 rails and 8 ft 4x4 posts) is built around the 8 ft spacing, so it also keeps material waste low.Link to this answer
- Yes in most US cities — fence permits typically cost $25–$75 and are required for any fence over 4 feet. In the Kansas City metro, Overland Park, Olathe, Lee's Summit, and KCMO all require a fence permit. HOAs in suburban subdivisions usually require separate architectural approval before the city permit. Call 811 at least 3 business days before digging — that's free and required by law.Link to this answer
- DIY material cost for a 6 ft cedar privacy fence runs $18–$28 per linear foot in 2026: about $9–$12/lf for cedar pickets, $4–$6/lf for posts and rails, $3–$5/lf for concrete and hardware, plus $25–$75 for the permit. A 150 ft fence runs $2,700–$4,200 in materials. Installed by a pro, the same fence is $42–$58/lf because labor on a 150 ft fence is 60–80 hours of skilled work.Link to this answer
- Building a privacy fence is moderately hard — it's a 2-person, 2–3 weekend job for a 150 ft fence. The hardest parts are digging 20+ post holes 36 inches deep (rent a 2-person auger; do not try by hand) and keeping every post perfectly plumb while concrete sets. Anyone comfortable with a level, an impact driver, and a circular saw can do it. The two failure points that ruin DIY fences: shallow posts (less than 36 in) and stretching spacing past 8 ft.Link to this answer
- Western red cedar is the best wood for a privacy fence — naturally rot-resistant, doesn't warp, takes stain beautifully, and lasts 20–30 years. Pressure-treated pine is the budget option ($32–$48/lf installed vs $42–$58/lf for cedar), lasts 12–18 years, and is required for posts and rails regardless of picket choice. Avoid untreated pine and spruce pickets entirely — they rot in 5–7 years.Link to this answer
- A 2-person crew with experience can build 150 ft of 6 ft privacy fence in 2 weekends: Day 1 layout and dig 20 post holes, Day 2 set posts in concrete (24-hour cure), Day 3 hang rails, Day 4 install pickets and gate. DIY first-timers usually need 3 weekends. A professional 2-person crew with an auger truck finishes the same fence in 1.5 days.Link to this answer
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